From Dusty Workshops to Prada Runways – The Kolhapuri Story

December 14, 2025

From dusty workshops in western India to gleaming luxury boutiques across Paris, Milan, and New York, the iconic Kolhapuri chappal is about to make a historic global leap.

What began as outrage over cultural appropriation has now transformed into an unprecedented collaboration between Indian artisans and one of the world’s most powerful fashion houses.

Italian luxury brand Prada has signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with Maharashtra’s LIDCOM and Karnataka’s LIDKAR on December 11, 2025, to produce and sell a limited-edition collection of sandals inspired by traditional Kolhapuri chappals. Under the project titled “PRADA Made in India x Inspired by Kolhapuri Chappals,” around 2,000 pairs will be handcrafted by Indian artisans in Maharashtra and Karnataka.

Priced at approximately ₹84,000 ($930) each, the collection will launch in February 2026 across 40 Prada stores worldwide and on Prada’s online platforms. Beyond commerce, the collaboration includes training programmes for artisans, blending traditional techniques with Prada’s contemporary design language, while ensuring fair compensation and global visibility for the craft.

The Recent Controversy That Sparked the Collaboration

The partnership follows intense backlash earlier in 2025, when Prada showcased flat leather sandals with braided detailing in its Spring–Summer 2026 Men’s collection at Milan Fashion Week in June. The footwear bore a striking resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals but was described merely as “leather sandals,” with no acknowledgement of their Indian origins.

With prices reportedly exceeding ₹1 lakh, images of the sandals went viral, triggering accusations of cultural appropriation from artisans, politicians, journalists, and social media users alike.

Industrialist Harsh Goenka highlighted the stark disparity: Indian artisans sell similar handmade pairs for ₹400–1,000, while global luxury brands reap enormous profits. Human rights groups further underscored the craft’s deep roots in Dalit and Charmakar communities, calling for ethical accountability.

The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce formally complained to Prada, while a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) was filed in the Bombay High Court, seeking compensation and recognition for artisans. Facing mounting pressure, Prada later acknowledged that its designs were inspired by “traditional Indian handcrafted footwear with centuries-old heritage.” This admission opened the door to dialogue, eventually culminating in the MoU.

What Are Kolhapuri Chappals?                        

Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted leather sandals originating from Kolhapur, Maharashtra, with a history dating back to the 12th century. Traditionally made by artisans from the marginalised Charmakar (cobbler) community, the craft flourished in the early 20th century under royal patronage from Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj.

In 2019, Kolhapuri chappals received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, recognising their unique origin and protecting the design across eight districts:

• Maharashtra: Kolhapur, Sangli, Solapur, Satara
• Karnataka: Belagavi, Bagalkot, Dharwad, Bijapur

The GI tag restricts unauthorised commercial copying within India, although enforcing it internationally remains complex.

Today, nearly 100,000 artisans are involved in the craft, with the industry valued at around $200 million. Despite this, most artisans earn modest wages. Craftsmen like Sadashiv Sanake produce 8–10 pairs a day, while workers such as Sunita Satpute earn roughly ₹300–450 per day, highlighting the economic imbalance behind this globally admired footwear.

Outlook and Impact

Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, has described the initiative as a “meaningful cultural exchange” aimed at amplifying awareness of India’s artisanal heritage. Union Minister Piyush Goyal has projected that such collaborations could help Indian handicrafts achieve $1 billion in annual exports.

The three-year programme includes structured artisan training in both India and Italy, exposure to global luxury standards, and long-term skill development. While some artisans in Maharashtra have expressed concern over Karnataka’s inclusion despite a shared GI status, the partnership is widely seen as a step toward economic upliftment.

If executed responsibly, the Prada–Kolhapuri collaboration could mark a turning point—where global luxury not only borrows inspiration from traditional crafts, but actively invests in their survival, dignity, and rightful recognition on the world stage.